The mere mention of cupping, and we’re immediately transported to the Olympics—specifically the 2016 Rio Summer Olympic Games, where famed swimmer Michael Phelps donned an array of odd circular, purple-ish red bruises along his shoulders and back. As it turns out, the treatment is a fairly common recovery tool for athletes. It’s become so popular over the years that the method’s expanded to other areas of the body, including a gentler, equally effective version for your face called—surprise, surprise—facial cupping. Not exactly creative but we appreciate the no-nonsense title.
The noninvasive cosmetic practice, which is beloved by celebrities like Kim Kardashian and actress turned-wellness-guru Gwyneth Paltrow, has a slew of skincare benefits, from plumper skin to reduced puffiness. But is facial cupping really the key to sculpted, glowy skin? To find the answers, we took a deep dive into the ancient practice and spoke with Tammy Fender, a holistic pioneer and renowned esthetician, and Joie Tavernise, a New York-based skin expert, medical esthetician and founder of JTAV.
What Is Facial Cupping?
Facial cupping, or really cupping of any kind, is a centuries-old practice that involves using suction cups on different areas of the face to gently list and stretch the tissue under the skin. The suctioning itself is meant to stimulate the flow of qi, a Chinese word meaning life force. While the exact origin of the technique isn’t completely clear, research suggests the holistic treatment can be traced back to early Chinese and Egyptian medicine, Tavernise shares.
Facial cupping works best when a serum or oil is applied to cleansed skin first to help reduce friction and prevent bruising (more on that later). Per the method, facial cups are then swept upward and outward across the face while using a squeeze-and-release technique to suction the cups to the skin. The motion is repeated several times on each side of the face, beginning at the base of the neck and working along the jawline, cheek area, and forehead.
Benefits of Facial Cupping
“Stimulating the tissues of the face through cupping helps open up circulation and supports detoxification,” Fender explains. “The suction of the cups pulls blood into areas of the face that may be more stagnant, causing oxygen and essential nutrients to flood in and helping the body eliminate impurities.”
According to Tavernise, the practice reduces puffiness, promotes cell turnover, softens wrinkles and fine lines, relieves muscle tension, and stimulates collagen production. Similar to gua sha, lymphatic drainage massages, and facial rollers, it also delivers fresh blood cells to the area, as well as draining any stagnant fluid or lymph in the face.
The increased collagen—which keeps skin looking firm and taut—and elevated blood circulation leaves skin looking supple and glowy, while the reduced puffiness and drained lymph helps tone and lift the face.
Who Should Try Facial Cupping? Who Shouldn’t?
As a holistic treatment, facial cupping is generally safe for most people, though Tavernise says there are some exceptions. In particular, those with very sensitive or thin skin, rosacea, or any active or healing wounds on the face should avoid facial cupping.
For those who don’t fall into those categories, the technique is particularly helpful for those who feel their face retains fluid, looks and feels puffy, or needs an overall boost and glow.
Facial Cupping Risks
When it comes to facial cupping, the main risk is bruising. This can occur when the suction cup is left in one place for too long—and, in extreme cases, can result in broken capillaries.
“It is important that you are gentle on your skin,” Tavernise explains. “You will actually get better results the softer you are with your technique.”
Professional vs. At-Home Facial Cupping
As is the case with many at-home tools (think dermaplaning, gua sha, etc.), facial cupping results do vary depending on whether the treatment is done professionally or at home. Facial cupping done by a professional will likely be more targeted and beneficial—after all, they understand the facial structure and technique better than the average layperson. But there are still ample and effective at-home options.
If you’re thinking about going the DIY route, we suggest opting for a set of different-sized cups, like the Glowy Glass Face Cupping Set from Skin Gym, which allows users to swap out options depending on area size and need. Most kits will provide detailed instructions on how exactly to use their cups, but Tavernise has some great advice: “I recommend starting off slowly and perfecting the technique that feels good for you. When trying something new, it is always best to be mindful of what works for your skin and work your way up to more use when you feel comfortable.”